LThe ferry glides over a sea of quicksilver. The surface of the Black Sea resembles in this early spring the unreal liquid metal of a magic mirror. The ship left Batumi, in Georgia, for Bourgas, in Bulgaria. The line is one of the last to operate because, since the invasion of Ukraine and the maritime blockade of Odessa, most are cut off. the Druzhba (“Friendship”, in the Slavic languages) of the Bulgarian company PBM brings home Yuri Kozachienko, 51, a Ukrainian trucker who is returning home after a month stuck on the other side. When the war broke out, he was in the Caucasus with his truck loaded with Georgian mineral water.
A first return had been brutally aborted. “On February 23, I embarked in Poti, Georgia, on a Ukrainian boat heading for Tc…
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